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Generac Air Cooled Generators Troubleshooting Questions, Answers, and Information About Air Cooled Guardian Generators

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Old March 17th, 2009   #1
layne-electric
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Default 16kW blowing 15 amp fuse

guardian 16kw starts and runs fine for a few seconds then I hear a sound like a belt squealing and see sparks from the flywheel area and then it blow the 15 amp fuse. Any suggestions?
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Old March 18th, 2009   #2
NYS SitePower Corp.
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What happens before the fuse blows? Does the engine bog at all, or does it remain at a constant RPM? Does it sound anything like the starter attempting to re-engage the flywheel? Are we talking "electrical" type sparks, or "mechanical" type sparks?
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Old March 18th, 2009   #3
layne-electric
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generator runs fine. It does not bog or anything, just squeals and then blows the fuse. I tried pulling wire 16 after it started and the noise stopped. I checked wire 56 and it had about 30 volts AC. I also checked 56 for DC voltage and had 13 volts on it. I tried replacing the voltage regulator with no luck. Any other suggestions?

Last edited by layne-electric; March 19th, 2009 at 02:21 PM..
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Old March 19th, 2009   #4
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One question before diving in: Is the generator producing correct freq. & voltage when it IS running? If it IS, keep reading. If not, we'll go another route.



If you removed wire #16 & it stopped the noise it is definitely be related to the starter contactor circuit.

Wire # 56 should not have anything on it other than 12VDC+ only when the unit is cranking. I'm guessing the 30VAC you saw on it was only a "ghost" voltage.

If you have a DC amp clamp, clamp wire & 16 when the unit is cranking and see what your amp draw is. It sounds as though your starter contactor is hanging up, or remaining engaged.

Basically, if wire #56 has 12VDC+ on it, then you should also have power to the #16 wire via the SCR relay and ultimately fuseholder F1. When there is no 12VDC+ on wire #56, wire #16 should correspondingly be dead and the stater contactor should open, releasing the starter.

(The SCR relays only purpose is to switch the current to the starter contactor. The starter contactor that Generac uses actually draws more current than the controller board itself is capable of switching, so they had to add an external relay to perform that function). Yeah, a smaller relay switching a larger relay essentially; I questioned that too.

Anyway here are the possibilities:
  1. The starter contactor is hanging closed, but why?
  2. The SCR relay is hanging closed causing the above
  3. The circuit board is not dumping the 12VDC+ signal to the SCR after the engine has been started & running causing BOTH of the above conditions.

If it IS in fact the latter - we need to now determine why the controller board is not releasing the 12VDC+ signal to wire #56. Either you have a bad controller board OR the controller board is not seeing the generator as running & producing acceptable voltage.

I would grab a meter & narrow it down from there to see what exactly is going on. Have a blast & let me know what you find!
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Old March 19th, 2009   #5
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Is this similar?

http://zillerelectric.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=24
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Old March 19th, 2009   #6
layne-electric
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yes this is similar situation. When the generator is running, the voltage and frequency are perfect. I was going to replace the control board, but I did not have one on my service truck.
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Old April 4th, 2009   #7
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This sounds exactly like the problem I had...Check the treads below. Also, at the beginning of my problem I change the starter because it was binding with the fly wheel. After I did that it still was binding and after trouble shootin found the starter relay was bad and then change that and it stopped, but by this time my control board had failed. Check out my post and hope it hepls.

http://zillerelectric.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633

http://zillerelectric.com/forums/showthread.php?t=606

Last edited by vmj5; April 4th, 2009 at 07:31 PM..
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